Pilot's Pick - A Family Day Trip to London's Barbican
Concrete jungle meets cultural oasis! From theatre and music to a tropical garden, it's a day out like no other. Today, we fly to Biggin Hill to visit the Barbican Centre in London.
Alongside this article, we're publishing a companion episode of our immersive podcast dedicated to the Barbican. You can listen to it below or in your favourite podcast app. Just search for Travel Plans with Fernando Pinho.
Hey there 👋
This time, I’m taking you to one of my favourite places on the planet! I’m afraid it isn’t a desert island in the middle of the Pacific or one of those “secret” locations “nobody” knows about.
It’s in London, easy to access, and capable of creating a day out you and your family won’t easily forget. Today, we are going to visit the Barbican Centre, the awe-inspiring fortress of culture that rose from the ruins of World War II.
This is no ordinary day out; this article is packed with great suggestions for an unforgettable day out in one of the largest performing arts centres in the world - music, theatre, art, cinema, exhibitions, architectural tours, a massive library, parks, lakes, medieval walls, a tropical garden, it’s all on offer at the Barbican.
Getting/flying to London
All roads and train lines will lead you to London, right?
But if you dream of flying your own aeroplane to London, buckle up. I've got the lowdown on your options as a pilot with a penchant for adventure (and a wallet that's not bottomless).
First, let us rule out those snooty airports where landing feels like trying to crash a royal ball without an invite. It's not worth the hassle or the home remortgage. Instead, let's talk about the cool(ish) kids on the block: London Biggin Hill (down south), Elstree (up north), and London Denham (over yonder to the west).
For this day out, I decided to fly to Biggin Hill. Why? Well, it's not just because it sounds like a place where a pilot can feel like a boss. It's also because it boasts the quickest route to central London - a mere 50 minutes by car and train combo. Sure, there's the option of a 6-minute helicopter joyride for a mere £3,000 per person. But let's be real, I've got better things to spend my hard-earned cash on, like more travel adventures!
While the Barbican's architecture may be bold, getting there is a breeze. If you're arriving by train, soak in the stunning views from Blackfriars Station and enjoy a leisurely 15-minute walk along the scenic route past St Paul's Cathedral. If you prefer, hop on the tube and disembark at Barbican or Moorgate stations, both offering direct access to the complex. Car drivers will find a convenient car park beneath the Barbican estate.
Ah, the Barbican. Barbican, Barbican, Barbican…
Sounds like a broken record, doesn't it? But hey, it's a massive complex, so it's bound to get stuck in your head.
Now, picture this: December 29th, 1940. The City of London gets hammered by bombs, and suddenly, acres of prime real estate between Aldersgate and Moorgate go up in flames. What's left? A whopping 40 acres of desolation.
Fast forward through decades of arguing, planning, and probably a few rounds at the pub, and voila! The new Barbican rises from the ashes like a concrete phoenix. It's a city within a city, designed to give commuters a shot at actually living near their jobs. Fancy that, huh?
So, what's in this urban utopia? Quite a lot. There's a massive performing arts centre, a library, schools, fancy flats, lakes, private gardens, you name it. And it's completely pedestrianized—no dodging traffic here.
For decades, unfounded rumours have pointed to the fact that people often get lost at the Barbican. Don't worry; you're not alone in getting lost in the Barbican labyrinth. It's like a secret club—once you find your way, you're in. So, if you're lost, just keep coming back until you're not. Easy peasy. Or, follow the yellow lines. They will lead you to the Barbican Centre.
So there you have it. The Barbican: the awe-inspiring fortress of culture that rose from the ruins of World War II, and getting lost is half the fun. Cheers to that!
It’s personal
In 2007, I left my home in Portugal to study at the Guildhall School of Music and Drama, which is part of the Barbican.
I spent three years there, studying hard and working part-time at the school's café and box office.
The funny thing is, I never imagined that I'd end up putting on my very first show at the Barbican Centre. It was a small production with my friends Lily James and Fredy Fox, but it helped set up our careers.
Being back here always brings back so many good memories. It really feels like home.
An architectural rot marvel
The Barbican Estate is a striking example of Brutalist architecture—a bold, some might say audacious style that emerged after the war. The estate demands attention, and its raw concrete and stark lines are a testament to a time of rebuilding.
Whether you love it or find it a bit intimidating, there's no denying its power. It's like that loud friend who always steals the spotlight, whether you want them to or not.
Intrigued? Ready to dive deeper into this architectural icon? The Barbican Centre offers a 90-minute tour. It's a deep dive into the heart of the Centre and its surrounding landscape, exploring hidden corners, navigating a maze of highways, and discovering lush courtyards tucked within those imposing structures. You'll walk across sweeping crescents and get up close and personal with the raw beauty of Brutalism.
While there's so much to explore at the Barbican, if you've got kids in tow and a limited time frame, make the architecture tour your top priority. Think of it as a scavenger hunt meets a history lesson! It's a fantastic way to engage young minds (and older ones, too!) with the unique beauty and fascinating story behind this iconic complex. And if your kids can stay focused for 90 minutes, they'll be rewarded with an ice cream at the end. This is just me saying. It’s not part of the deal, so I’ll leave it to you.
Alternatively, the Barbican Centre has produced a 20-minute video that tells the story of the estate and the Centre. You can watch it here.
Here’s a curiosity—the Barbican architects designed it for young professionals, ‘likely to have a taste for Mediterranean holidays, French food and Scandinavian design’. You can find influences from many countries around the Barbican, but can you find a resemblance to the Egyptian Sphinx in one of the photos below?
Inside the Barbican Centre
Okay, you conquered the maze of highways (don't worry, it's not that daunting).
Now, most visitors head straight for the main entrance on Silk Street, but where's the fun in that? Instead, opt for the lakeside entrance – it's the original, and way cooler
The interior of the Barbican Centre is a Brutalist dream, with walls of raw concrete giving off serious industrial chic vibes. You can even spot the marks left by the wooden moulds used in its construction – talk about character!
But don't think it's all cold and stark. The Barbican surprises with warm touches of wood and brick and vibrant splashes of colour in the furnishings and carpets.
Despite its imposing exterior, the Barbican's interior is surprisingly airy, thanks to cleverly placed skylights and windows that flood the space with natural light. It's like a dance between light and shadow in there.
And just like outside, where elevated walkways wind and twist, inside feels like a labyrinth waiting to be explored. With different levels, unexpected corners, and hidden nooks, every turn brings a new discovery.
And that excitement couldn’t be more real when you realize what’s on offer here.
The venues
The Barbican Arts Centre isn't just a place to catch a show – it's a buzzing cultural wonderland. Home to the London Symphony Orchestra, two theatres (the Royal Shakespeare Company comes here often), three cinema screens, two art galleries, a library and even a lush tropical conservatory, there's truly something for everyone to discover.
To-to-ro, to-to-ro!
While visiting the Barbican, I got to experience the magic of the multi-award-winning stage adaptation of My Neighbour Totoro. It was produced by the Royal Shakespeare Company and presented at the Barbican Theatre. Sadly, it closed on that night after two incredible seasons, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a future revival.
Although I couldn’t take photos to share with you, here's the official trailer to give you a taste of the magic.
Nestled at the core of the Barbican Centre lies a true gem: the Barbican Library. It's not your regular library – it's a haven of literary delights, with a vast collection of books, spoken word recordings, DVDs, CDs, and scores just waiting to be explored.
The library is a playground for music enthusiasts. You can borrow music scores and play them on the available pianos, or spin some tunes on the turntables or CD players. It's like your very own music paradise.
And for the little ones, there's a special area upstairs just for them, packed with books and music records to spark their imaginations.
This library feels like a peaceful oasis amidst the Barbican's bold, concrete surroundings.
But the Barbican is more than just its star attractions. It's a network of cafes, bars, restaurants, and public spaces that pulse with energy. As a student, I spent countless hours here, soaking up the atmosphere – it has a unique blend of quiet corners, perfect for studying or getting lost in a book, and lively social spots ideal for catching up with friends.
Embarrassing
Let's be honest, we've all got those overdue library books lurking in the shadows. But in the companion episode of our Barbican podcast (check it out!), I take 'overdue' to a whole new level. My 15… 17-year book loan snafu might make you feel a little better about your own library fines! I do love a good Noel Coward play!
To eat or not to eat?
At the Barbican Centre, that's never the question! They have plenty of options:
Barbican Kitchen is my top pick—especially if you've got children with you! Kids under 10 eat free with a paying adult (how cool is that?).. You’ll find fresh sandwiches, pizzas, salads, yummy desserts, and great coffee—something for everyone's taste buds. It can get crowded, but snag an outdoor table by the lakeside for lovely views. Just watch out for those opportunistic birds eyeing your lunch! Price: Around £10 per serving.
Barbican Bar and Grill—This first-floor burger haven offers a relaxed vibe. Their portions are HUGE—I practically shared my Katsu Curry Chicken burger with a friendly stranger nearby! Price range: £10-£20.
Barbican Brasserie—Overlooking the iconic Barbican lakeside, this spot serves elegant British and European dishes. While I haven't tried it recently, its sophisticated atmosphere seems perfect for a special occasion. The two-course menu costs £28. Pro tip: the views are so lovely that you might almost forget about the wine prices!
Besides the restaurants, the Barbican has cafes and bars sprinkled all over the place. You can't walk far without bumping into one, perfect for when you need a quick caffeine fix or a quick bite between events.
And relax…
It's London, so you know there are more hotels than...well, many things! But for this Barbican adventure, I have a simple suggestion: the Premier Inn Smithfield. Just a short stroll away, you can snag a family room for under £100 a night! That leaves more in your pocket for all those fantastic shows at the Barbican.
The Barbican - ‘an open prison’ I don’t want to get out of
You can definitely sense my love for the Barbican. I often dream of living there again. But then, an elderly resident's words gave me pause: "Living here is like being in an open prison. You come in, and you can't get out again." It's a perspective I understand, and I dare to say, it shows how successful the Barbican became.
I believe life's magic lies in those moments that linger in our hearts long after. The moments that make us long for a rewind button. We should chase those feelings, those places that spark such warmth.
For me, the Barbican is one of those places. Rising from the ashes of World War II, it's a testament to the power of rebuilding, of turning a painful past into a vibrant celebration of creativity and community. It houses some of the finest art, music, and theatre this country offers. If that doesn't make it worth the trip, I don't know what does!
I will be back with my children many more times.
Until next time, keep exploring and happy travels!